In Portland, an interior remodel is a dance between preserving the soul of a 100-year-old house and satisfying the rigorous demands of the Bureau of Development Services (BDS). Whether you’re opening up a galley kitchen in Richmond or finishing a basement in Laurelhurst, the process is less of a straight line and more of a series of checkpoints.

Here is your 2026 Portland-specific roadmap from the first “what if” to the final sign-off.

Phase 1: The “Portland Prep” (Months 1–3)

Before you swing a hammer, you have to navigate the local bureaucracy and the specific quirks of Oregon construction.

• The 1978 Rule: If your home was built before 1978, you must test for lead and asbestos. In Portland, contractors must be LBBP (Lead-Based Paint Activities) certified. Don’t skip this; the fines are astronomical, and the health risks in our enclosed, rainy-season environments are real.
• The Simple Bathroom/Kitchen Track: Check if your project qualifies for Portland’s “Simple Bathroom” or “Simple Kitchen” permit programs. If you aren’t moving load-bearing walls or changing the footprint, you can often bypass the months-long plan review.
• The “Seismic” Question: While the walls are open, ask your contractor about seismic strapping. In 2026, many Portland homeowners are proactively bolting their sill plates to the foundation—it’s the cheapest time to do it.

Phase 2: Design & Permitting (Months 3–5)

• Plan Submission: Portland requires a site plan, existing floor plan, and proposed floor plan. Even for interior work, they want to see your “Erosion Control” plan if you’re staging materials outside in the rain.
• Fixture Selection: In 2026, lead times for “luxury” items (like high-end Zellige tile or custom vanities) are still hovering around 8–12 weeks. Order your finishes before you permit. You don’t want a “demo’d” house sitting empty because your faucet is stuck in a container at the Port of Portland.

Phase 3: The Construction “Slog” (Months 6–9)

Once the permit is taped to your front window, the sequence is rigid. If you deviate, the inspector will make you rip it out.

1. Demolition: Controlled chaos. Ensure your contractor uses “negative air” machines to keep dust out of the rest of your house.
2. Rough-In: Plumbers and electricians do their work inside the studs.
3. The “First” Inspections: You will need Structural, Electrical, and Plumbing Rough-in inspections. The inspector needs to see the “guts” of the work before you cover them with drywall.
4. Insulation & Drywall: Once the city gives the “green tag” on your rough-ins, the insulation goes in, followed by a separate insulation inspection, then drywall.
5. Finish Work: Tile, cabinetry, flooring, and paint. This is the stage where the house starts to feel like a home again.

Phase 4: The Final Countdown (The Last Month)

• Mechanical/Trade Finals: The plumber returns to set the toilets and sinks; the electrician hangs the lights. They each need their “Final” inspection.
• The “Building Final”: This is the big one. The city inspector comes back to check everything from the height of your stair railings to the “U-value” of any new windows.
• The Punch List: This is your inspection. Walk through with a roll of blue painter’s tape and mark every paint drip, crooked switch plate, or scratched cabinet. Do not pay the final 10% of the contract until this list is zeroed out.

Pro-Tip: The “Oregon Rain” Contingency

If your remodel involves a dumpster in the driveway or staging wood outside, buy a high-quality tarp. It sounds obvious, but “Portland mold” starts in the driveway. If your new subflooring gets soaked before it’s installed, it will squeak and warp for the next thirty years.